SANTA OLALLA DEL CALA , the next village to the east of Zufre, is a walkable 16km from there, which - without transport of your own - may be your only option as there is no bus link, although locals are often willing to give lifts. It's a flattish route through open country with pigs and fields of wheat and barley, and then a sudden view of the Moorish castillo above the town. There have been several half-hearted attempts to reconstruct the castle but they haven't been helped by its adaptation in the last century as the local cemetery - the holes for coffins in the walls rather spoil the effect. Below its walls is the fifteenth-century parish church , with a fine Renaissance interior.
Coming from Zufre it's a surprise to find several hostales in Santa Olalla, but the town is actually on the main Sevilla-Badajoz road and sees a fair amount of traffic - and regular buses to both cities, which stop outside the friendly Bar Primitivo , c/Marina 3. Nearby, rooms are to be had at the comfortable Casa Carmelo , c/Marina 23 (tel 959 190 169; ¬18-27), some with bath. For food both places serve economical menús , with the latter specializing in the excellent jamones and salchichas from the pig farms hereabouts.
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